Skin Care

Basic Information

Most people are concerned about skin care. We want to have clear, healthy skin and an agreeable appearance -- but many of us labor under misconceptions about how to aid our skin in staying healthy and young-looking.

It is generally agreed that the best way to cleanse your skin is with water. This can be a surprise to most of us who are bombarded by products that tell us we need deep cleansing to get rid of dirt. We don't. Plain water or a little mild soap is enough and the kind of soap used is rarely important -- unless your skin is dry and sensitive and you cannot tolerate a specific soap -- then water alone will do the trick.

To remove makeup that is heavy use cold cream, then wash the cold cream off with water and, if you like, a little soap. Most water-based makeup will not make a case of acne worse -- but the use of heavy makeup that is greasy can cause pimples and sometimes vex an already existing case of acne.

Skin peelers, abrasives or "beauty masks" only do the job that nature does by itself -- the dead layers of skin peel off by themselves in only a few days.

Moisturizers do lubricate and smooth the skin -- but only for a short time. In fact their effect lasts only for a few hours. There is no reason to pay "an arm and a leg" for beautifully packaged products -- or for moisturizers that are advertised for specific parts of the body. Lubrication or moisturizing creams all generally do the same job -- if you have sensitive or dry skin patches, find a moisturizer you like and apply to the problem area or areas. They are generally safe to use and do provide short-lived skin lubrication.

There is no fountain of youth to be found in any cosmetics -- at best they can temporarily moisturize and hide unsightly blemishes. Everyone's skin ages and there is nothing to be found in cosmetics to halt, heal or change it. But preventive measures can help. The biggest enemy of the skin -- the enemy that causes premature skin aging or wrinkles -- is the sun.

The sun causes damage to the skin -- permanently. Besides normal visible light, sunlight also contains ultraviolet light which causes the burning and harmful exposure that leads to eventual skin damage. Youthful sun worshipers, often oblivious to the harmful skin-damaging rays of the sun, will pay for their tan years, even decades later, leaving themselves open to developing basal cell carcinoma, a form of skin cancer, as well as to premature aging or wrinkles. The use of tanning salons is ill-advised if you are concerned about your skin -- the same ultraviolet rays will damage your skin in the same manner as the sun. Tanning lotions, however, are safe to use as long as you remember that the lotions themselves do not protect against sunburn.

Fair-skinned, fair-haired persons are most at risk for developing basal cell carcinoma and wrinkles or premature aging of the skin, although dark-skinned persons can sustain premature wrinkles caused by the sun as well. Of course, age is the culprit for the broad or pitted wrinkles in the elderly. But in older, middle-aged or younger persons sun is the likeliest cause of wrinkles.

What can you do about wrinkles? Not a whole lot. Prevention is the best method.

Wear protective clothing -- protective is the key word. Wear a hat, long-sleeved shirt and long pants. Skimpy T-shirts do not really provide adequate protection against sun damage. Enjoy an active outdoor life but use a sunscreen or better yet a sun block on exposed body areas -- these chemical screens absorb the ultraviolet rays. The sun-protective factor or SPF marked on the label should be as high as possible for best protection. It is recommended that you use an SPF of 35 and up. Some sunscreens can irritate your skin -- so try putting a little bit on at first to see if you can tolerate it -- otherwise switch to another brand. If possible stay out of the hot summer sun during 11 AM--3 PM and especially keep young children protected from sunburn -- why start them on the inevitable path to sun damage at such a young age? You don't have to hide from the sun -- enjoy the beautiful outdoors -- but take protective measures to keep your skin healthy and youthful-looking.

Other than protecting yourself from the sun, there is no clear proof that any other methods will provide long-term prevention or remission of wrinkles or skin aging. Let's look at some of these methods:

• Face lifts, deep chemical peels

These are surgical procedures that are expensive and painful but often do provide marked, positive results. But besides a lengthy recovery for the patient, there is the danger for certain patients of possible scarring much less disappointing results. If contemplating these surgical procedures you should be certain that you find an experienced, reputable specialist.

• Collagen injections

Collagen, derived from cattle, is injected into the skin and can provide temporary smoothing of wrinkles -- but this is an expensive procedure using the unknown long-term effects of injecting a foreign protein, and the wrinkles will return, usually in less than a year.

• Fibrel

This is an expensive, painful procedure (almost always done with a local anesthetic) in which a mix of your own plasma, gelatin and amino caproic acid is injected into your skin. Results are sketchy and unclear at best and this method is not commonly used.

• Fat

The injection of your own fat cells into your skin is not yet a widely used method of wrinkle removal -- not the least reason being that the fat cells are absorbed very quickly.

• Creams

There is no proof that especially prepared creams that promote or advertise the removal or prevention of wrinkles do anything of the kind. They are mostly hype.

• Retin A

Retin A is the trade name for tretinoin, an "anti-wrinkle" cream, that scientists have invested much time and money in. Tretinoin has been found to have beneficial effects in smoothing out fine wrinkles in about one-third of patients who have used it over a prolonged period, repeating continual applications. It is not exactly the Fountain of Youth that had been hoped for. Benefits, when they do occur, seem modest and temporary at best and tretinoin, a topical agent used to treat acne, is a skin irritant -- the stinging and redness it often causes has stopped its use in more than one hopeful person and for those who continue to use it, sun exposure should be limited.

• Facial Exercises

The myth that facial exercises prevent wrinkles is widespread -- and totally false. Just the opposite is true. Wrinkles are the product of and probably worsened by facial movement. One only has to see the absence of wrinkles in those who have suffered facial muscle paralysis caused by stroke.

Common sense skin care and prevention of skin damage caused by the sun is the course most likely to help you succeed in maintaining healthy, youthful-looking skin.

If you have questions about skin care or skin disorders, please see your health care provider.

Additional Resource(s):

• American Academy of Dermatology 847-330-0230